The White Mughal tour in Hyderabad about Romance & Betrayal
Description
In 1797 a British colonel arrived in Hyderabad to subjugate the kingdom for the East India Company. Three years later he had married a Hyderabadi noblewoman, converted to Islam, adopted Mughal dress and customs, and secretly switched his loyalty to the Nizams. He had become a double agent against his own empire. This half day White Mughals tour Hyderabad takes you to the places where this extraordinary true story unfolded. The magnificent British Residency he built as a statement of imperial power. The replica mansion he constructed so his purdah observing wife could see his home without leaving her quarters. The Rang Mahal palace where their daughter was born. The historic gates, the British cemetery and the stepwell that formed the world the two of them shared. William Dalrymple wrote the book. We take you to the locations. Private car, expert guide and all entry fees included.
Tour Options
Itinerary
The British Residency is an imposing building and architectural marvel. It was the backdrop for an incredible cross cultural love story between James Achilles Kirkpatrick a high ranking official of the East India Company and Khair-un-Nissa a noblewoman. In 1800, Kirkpatrick married her as per Muslim law and converted to Islam. Eventually he became a double agent working for Hyderabad against the interests of the Company! The mansion was built after the Nizams and the British signed a treaty in 1798 to allow the British to settle down in Hyderabad. The mansion was a symbol of British authority in the deccan region. The Durbar Hall is the highlight of the British Residency. It looks regal with Burma Teakwood flooring and Belgian mirrors and French chandeliers. There is also a smaller replica of the Residency. Khair un-Nissa, being a Muslim lady, was in purdah and hence was not allowed to visit the mansion. Therefore James built a replica for his wife to enjoy!
Bank street is where the English bankers used to stay. Today it is a major commercial hub of Hyderabad. We will walk past here continuing the White Mughal story. The surrounding area came to be known as Residency Bazaar and emerged as the financial center of Hyderabad in the mid-nineteenth century. After the 1857 Sepoy Mutiny against the British East India Company, the mansion was fortified with high walls and bastions.
James also built a lavish palace for his Begum within the residency. Rang Mahal or Palace of colours was where Khair un-Nissa gave birth to their daughter Sahib Begum. It is unfortunately in ruins today. The story of this forbidden cross-cultural love continues at a cemetery and a stepwell and ends at a resident’s dog memorial.
Highlights
What's included
Pickup Locations & Times
All Hyderabad hotels
Traveller Ratings
Important Information
- Public transportation options are available nearby
- Suitable for all physical fitness levels
Reviews(13)
Mrs. Shashi was very knowledgeable of the region and history of Hyderabad. While our tour was about the White Mughals and her knowledge and instruction of that history was great, she also had knowledge of the other aspects of Hyderabad’s history, such as the Nizams and the Hindu history. I would recommend booking with her as a guide for the tour over the White Mughals or any tour that she may offer in Hyderabad.
Was a very interesting experience. Mr Srinu conducted it very well. Want to explore more such historical places in Hyderabad after this pleasant experience.
The guide for this tour Srinu shared a comprehensive and fascinating history dating back a 1000 years about the influence of Persian and Central Asian culture on the Deccan Plateau (includes most of the Indian states of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Telangana and minor parts of Kerala and Tamil Nadu) up until the late 17th century with the arrival of the East India Company. Srinu shared his expertise, which includes collaboration with author William Dalrymple while he was conducting research for his book White Mughals, about Lieutenant Colonel James Achilles Kirkpatrick’s near complete immersion into the Indo-Persian culture while serving as British Resident of the Nizam of Hyderabad’s court. This immersion led to Kirkpatrick falling in love and eventual marriage to Khair-un-Nissa Begum, granddaughter of the prime minister at the Nizam of Hyderabad’s court. This gem of a tour provided a rare opportunity to visit the British Residency Building and grounds (currently undergoing restoration).
Excellent tour! Anand is a knowledgeable and engaging. The tour relates a touching story and brings the history to life.
Excellent tour! Anand is engaging and knowledgeable. The tour is off the beaten path but highly recommended! A wonderful way to learn more about the history of the region.
We really loved this tour. It’s all in the one area and we customised it by attending the Nazim Museum. All really interesting. Our guide Srinu then took us to Paigah Tombs as we were too early for afternoon tea at Falaknuma Palace. We both agreed this visit to the tombs was incredible even though going through restoration - really haunting and interesting: atmosphere was added to by the call to prayer in the mosque on the same site. Please make sure you include this! Thank you Srinu and also thanks to our driver! By way of comment restoration of all the amazing sites in Hyderabad needs to be financially supported and prioritised to ensure nothing else falls into further ruins and is preserved for future generations: carry on the fight for this Srinu!
The white Mughal was a fantastic historical walk. Our guide Srinu was amazing and told us the fascinating story and we saw many amazing buildings. Very highly recommended.
My guide was Srinu, and he was the most excellent and informed guide. The subject of this tour centres on the story of one of the East India Company's very first British Residents in Hyderabad (James Kirkpatrick), his marriage to a local Muslim noblewoman, Khair-un-Nissa, and the wonderfully restored (in progress) British Residency building. It is a half-day tour, which is more than sufficient. The story of their marriage, family and the tragic outcome is one for the ages, but to my mind, the real star of the show is the British Residency. An official residence until the time of Independence, it was handed over to a university and used and largely neglected until this story was published in novel form by historian William Dalrymple. Your guide Srinu was a consultant to both the author and the resulting film, so you're in the hands of a subject matter expert here. The main building has largely been restored and you literally step back to the Raj era upon setting foot in the door. It will blow you away because of its authenticity of restoration, true in every way to the original. The main Residency is now a protected monument and heritage centre, with plans underway for the restoration of the Residency's wings. If you have an interest in Raj-era architecture and social history in Hyderabad (and India), this is the tour for you. FUN FACT: You will not see any European buildings in Hyderabad, as you do throughout most of India, which I didn't realize until it was pointed out to me, because Hyderabad was never conquered per se, by the East India Company. Rather, the Nizam of Hyderabad entered into a subsidiary alliance, making it a British protectorate, and there it was somewhat more independent, so the British Residency is it!
I am so glad to have gone on this tour. I learned so much from Srinu, and he was patient, kind, and helpful. I'm looking forward to more tours with him.
Really interesting tour of late 18th century Hyderabad. Kumar had a wide knowledge, a pleasant manner, and good English. Would recommend.
